Fried Video Transmitter, minor set-back :-(
Lesson learned: don't try to wire small circuitry at 11pm at night. Last night I received a small CMOS video camera + transmitter combo (2.4 ghz LTS wireless camera) and put it on my E-Flight Blade MSR. I was actually able to lift this + battery, although it was certainly struggling. However before I could record any video, I managed to cross the positive and negative wires on the battery, and I fried a capacitor and possibly a majority of the circuitry on the 2.4ghz camera transmitter board.
So, results are in: Yes my Blade MSR can lift this rather large camera + battery, and no, the camera does not like it when you feed positive 9volts into the transmitter ground. I'm going to see if I can get a replacement surface mounter capacitor, but frankly, I think this may not be fixable :-(. Either way I'm no longer going to wire circuitry at night when I'm tired.
On a better note, check out these cool pictures from the board!
Above: identical capacitor (that IS a capacitor, right?) to the one I fried. I need to ID this...
Above: Camera on left (backside of CMOS board, and crispy 2.4ghz tx on right)
Above: CMOS
Above: CMOS zoomed in. glass is not very clean.....
Above: CMOS, focal point is on circuitry under the glass
Above: even closer
-
Comment by Brian Wolfe on February 25, 2010 at 12:07pm -
Ouch! Sorry for your bad luck. Looks like a 10uF 16V electrolytic. If you can tolarate the voltage drop you could add a diode in line to protect against revearse polarity.
-
Comment by Martin Seven on February 25, 2010 at 1:05pm -
Yeah, definitely a 10µF 16V elyte.
That microchip porn is beautiful, what hardware did you use to take those pictures?
-
Comment by Andrew Whipple on February 25, 2010 at 6:51pm -
wtf haha im srry ;(
-
Comment by Greg Fletcher on February 25, 2010 at 9:26pm -
Crossing wires on a lipo can burn your house down, let alone your plane. Spend some time learning to solder and ditch the black tape. Buy some heat shrink and a cheap heat gun. This can be a serious safety issue(FIRE).
Take the time to do it right. Sorry for being so harsh. You will probably not let this happen again, but I'am thinking of others who might read this.
-
Comment by Jeff on February 25, 2010 at 9:37pm -
nice thanks for the intel on the capacitor! and yes diode would probably be a good idea haha.
I'll was using a nikon NEXIV vision system to take the pics. I'm glad you like the pics, I thought they were very cool too!
-
Comment by Morli on February 26, 2010 at 2:11am -
Sorry to hear abt the toast Jeff, i wish you had used the NEXIV before instead of afterword , say No No to insulation tapes and similar when in proximity of LiPo, and use Shrinkable pls.
-
Comment by grabbag on February 26, 2010 at 2:52am -
Yikes becareful that is not a electrolytic capacitor. Its actually a Tantalum capacitor. Replacing that capacitor with a electrolytic capacitor would likely cause issues if it would even work at all. If you did replace it with a electrolytic one you would likely need a 100 uf one instead of 10uf. If you would like to read why you can visit here for a good explanation...
http://www.engineersedge.com/instrumentation/tantalum_capacitors.htm
Also they are marked backwards from regular capacitors so make sure you pay attention when mounting or else.... pop again. They can be really finicky too...
Comment
Contests
Season Two of the Trust Time Trial (T3) Contest has now begun. The third round was a reliablilty/aerial photography round for both planes and copters, which is now closed. Stay tuned for the next round, beginning soon.A list of all T3 contests is here.
Top Content
Groups
-
DIYDrones - CNC Project
61 members
-
Moderators
57 members
-
ArduPilot (legacy) User …
95 members
-
ArduCopter Evolution Team
108 members
-
ArduCopter User Group
617 members
© 2012 Created by Chris Anderson.
You need to be a member of DIY Drones to add comments!
Join DIY Drones